When did you last hitch a ride?

Day 35 Monday 31st May
Seix / St Girons / St Lizier
This time my bus arrangements worked better. Checked out of one hotel,
delivered my rucksack to the next and at the busstop with others in
good time for the bus - scheduled for 9:25 but apparently could come
up to 15 mins either side of that. A pleasant half hour ride and I was
in St Girons. Having checked in at the tourist office I thought I'd
take the 2km walk to St Lizier and have a picnic there then get a
coffee or a beer. Ha ha. It's Monday and it is only May. More fool me
to expect anything to be open!
Still, I had a sandwich with me and it is a really pretty village so I
wasn't disappointed. It's known for it's cathedral and bishops palace
- both currently undergoing restoration so not open to visitors. Oh
well!
I trundled back to St Girons to fill the time til Ben arrives. And
while doing so and making the most of the sightseeing opportunities I
failed to see that the tiny kerb on the bridge had suddenly become a
big one, and off I fell causing lots if consternation. No real harm
done - just another bruise to add to the collection.
When Ben arrives we have to decide whether to take the tourist office
advice and thumb a lift back to Seix or get a taxi. I'm not at all
sure I'm up for flagging down a vehicle and asking for "Seix" and I'm
even less keen to encourage my son to do so. I think it might be a taxi.

Arriving in St Lizier

A touch of local colour

Sorry, a bit mean I know, but he was being such a poser 2 feet from me
at the bus-stop with his green umbrella, red and patterned fleece,
mutlicoloured trousers and panama hat I just couldn't resist. Missed
his head, which was a shame, but it might have been just too obvious
and at risk of being thumped.

What happens to everyone on a Sunday?

Day 34 Sunday 30th May
Esbints to Seix - 4 miles!
Well, that wasn't too much effort. It would gave been a little longer
had I been able to use the path instead of the road.
Seix is a very attractive large village, busy on a Sunday morning/
lunchtime, dead thereafter.
Unfortunately the hotel i'm staying in for Monday night is closed for
three days before that so I can't have both nights there. So Sunday
night was spent at the place I had lunch - the Auberge de Mont Valier
- and very good it was too. I think the owner found me a bit of a
curiosity, or felt sorry for me, as I had a complimentary glass of
wine with my lunch. In spitenof plans for a light picnic later in the
day, I had to eat there in the evening as well as there was nothing
else open. He did me a salad, presented it with another free wine and
then when I asked for a "grand cafe crème decaféiné" it was really
"grand" - in a breakfast cup, ie at least twice the usual quantity. I
feel a bit mean not staying there a second night bit arrangements were
already made
And the other hotel looks good too, and it's cheaper. I'll just have
to keep my head down when I get back to Seix later with Ben.

Esbints

In the middle of nowhere and very simple, Esbints is a littkle gem.
Gilla has retired from her shepherd duties and concentrates on Gite
stuff. she's german, was a teacher but got fed up with being a german
civil servant and ended up 33 yrs ago down here with the sheep. Now
she seems to take charge of al Gite activities in the area -
unoficially of course. Anyway, the Gite is a one up one down converted
barn with a selection of double & single bunks sleeping 10 and some
seating and balcony upstairs plus an outside loo, and kitchen/dining
space and shower downstairs. She provides meals for walkers who stay,
in her own kitchen, all organic and local. Good food and atmosphere is
very special. Candlelit breakfast not because of lack of electricity
but because it makes it feel warmer and more welcoming. And she also
makes it her business to know about the state of paths, gites etc in
the area and gave me loads of info about where to go and where not to.
Gilla's husband and son are both shepherds and are currently preparing
for the move to summer pastures - the Estives - the annual
Transhumance of the animals higher up the mountains. They leave with
their own sheep and flocks from other shepherds to spend the summer in
their cabane in the mountain, only to come down from time to time for
a couple of hours to collect food supplies firnthwmselves and their
dogs. A strange kind of life for everyone.

The view from the wifi hotspot

Glad I got down early from the mountains

Today's hotel room

On the left, with blue shutters

No shortage of white water in Seix

Saturday evening's welcoming committee

The next generation of "Petit Berger de Pyrenées"

Another room with a view

This from the Gite d'Esbints, which I'm sharing with two others, as
yet unseen. The roof is that of the owners house below.

Roll with the dice

Day 33 Saturday 29th May
Argien to Esbints 9 miles and a taxi ride
In spite of things not going to plan it's been a really enjoyable day.
Overnight was fine and the morning clouds disappeared almost like
magic during the first hour of walking. Audressein was a pretty
village and the walk from there to castillon was lovely, along some GR
path or orner. Not sure which. I popped onto the Tourist Office to
check out accommodation options. Just as well. My planned stop for the
night, about 6km further on, no longer functioned and the next one was
the one I'd planned for tomorrow. Even then it would have been >11
miles and almost 1000 of ascent. That would have made a completely
inrealistix day but I didn't really want to stop at midday and even
then have 15 miles to so tomorrow. So, I hopped into a taxi up to Lac
de Bethmale and walked from there - a much more realistic option. So,
here I am at the Gite d'etape at Esbints one day early. The most basic
one so far (one loo out the back and one rather beaten up shower) but
it has a rustic charm and is clean. And there are lambs and puppies to
play with.
The walk itself has been great. Some road but not too much, GR10 not
too cluttered with trees and some lovely views and villages. And I saw
another couple of deer. Haven't seen a brown bear yet though. Not sure
if I'm glad or disappointed.
Tomorrow is a very easy day - just 5 miles or so down into Seix. And
then I will have a touristy day in St Girons on Monday while I wait
for Ben to arrive. What could be better than that?

Road or Gr10

See the sign? And can you see the incline? And into a wood! No thanks.
Even roads are better than that.

Lac de Bethmale

Beautiful. I'm definitely glad indecloned the taxi driver's offer to
take me right to the top of the pass.

Audressein - Relay Entre Deux Rivières

...where I could have stayed had i still had legs and energy for 3
more km on Friday.

Audressein - the first village I passed through on Saturday morning

It was really pretty and this view greeted me as I arrived.

St Lary where I'd planned to stop for Friday night

...but becaus of the lift it was only lunchtime. Had a good lunch
though.

Castillon

...is lovely and I was tempted to stay, bit it was much too early and
would have made tomorrow much too long.

Just another day

Day 32 Friday 28th May
Col de Menté to Argien 14.5 miles plus about 5 in a van!
Expected to be a bit of a slog along windy roads with no villages
until the last quarter and included the climb to Col de Portet
d'Aspet, another of the steep climbs on the Tour de France route. But
after walking down 600m from the Col de Menté I was offered a lift. In
the end I was dropped off about 15 minutes later at the Col de Portet
d'Aspet, saving me about 5 miles and a 450m climb. As a result I
arrived at my destination at lunchtime. It didn't look quite the place
to spend half a day so j has lunch and then continued for a further
couple of hours.
It gives me a nice short day tomorrow to explore one or two of the
villages en route. I'm told the weather will be a bit better tomorrow
and I may give the paths another chance. Road walking is quicker but
much harder on the feet and joints, especially for a descent.
Not much esle to say, really. It's been rather a dull day in all
senses and I have felt physically and mentally weary. Looking forward
to something a bit more lively or interesting tomorrow.

Normal service will be resumed as soon as possible

Because of problems with wifi it looks as though some of the recent
posts have come through in a strange order. Sorry about that. I'll
have a go at sorting it out when I next get internet access.

Another day on the road

Day 31 Thursday 27th May
Burgalays to Col de Menté 6 miles plus some more in the car.

How glad I was to get a lift down to St Béat. It would have been quite
horrendous walking. The uphill stretch from there to the col was
demanding physically but relaxing mentally as I wasn't in those
wretched woods and the road was quiet. I took it quite gently and as
time went on the increasing wind and cloud cover managed to keep me
cool. Having got to the col today fairly easily it leaves me with a
more manageable target tomorrow. It would otherwise have been one of
the longer ones.
Otherwise nothing much to report. The Gite d'Étape seems fine if a bit
chilly and quite quiet and in theory there is wifi but in practice
it's a bit reluctant to communicate. Ah well.

A helping hand

I had finally had enough of the trials
and tribulations of the miles and miles of woodland paths and decided
to walk from Burgalays along the roads, but my hosts were worried
about the safety of walking where the mad Spanish lorry drivers
hurtled around the windy roads and offered to take me as far as
St Béat where the worst of the road walking ended. That left me with
this!

A warm welcome and exceptional food in Burgalays

Jean-Jacques and Marie-France, who looked after me so well at La
Candariou in Burgalays.

A new location for Larkrise?

There were dozens of ruined buildings along the last part of my path.
Quite eerie.

Looking back at Luchon half an hour after leaving

First impressions are often wrong.

Day 30 Wednesday 26th May
Bagneres de Luchon - Burgalays 9 miles
After such a good time in Luchon it was hard to leave and my body took
a while to get into it's stride. The day was one of 3 parts really.
The first part along paths through woods halfway up the valley side
was slow and frustrating. There is so much debris on the ground and
huge trees across the paths, progress was really slow. Eventually the
path dropped to valley floor level and became more sensible so my
speed increased. then after crossing the valley and cutting a corner
by doing a bit of road walking it was back to the woods. Where it
wasn't obstructed by debris it was very overgrown with grass and
nettles,along it difficult to see the signs and also painful at times,
not to mention the sticks that set out to attack when given the chance.
The bonus of this last stretch though was seeing a couple of large
deer - possibly Isards. Once again they spotted me first so no photos
I'm afraid.
Then I arrived at the chambres d'hotes - Le Calandariou - ready to
relax. The welcome was warm and after a full tour of the stables
they'd converted to guest accommodation followed by a drink and
introductions to various relatives visiting for a fee days I was left
to relax until dinner. I was expecting a fairly subdued evening with
run of the mill food. I couldn't have been more wrong. Marie-France
had prepared a meal which would have done a good class restaurant
proud. And the verbal ping-pong, jokes etc throughout the meal were
very amusing. Everyone took a lot of trouble to make sure I could
follow and participate. It was a riot. The evening flashed by and I
crashed out instantly afterwards.

Ready for part 2?

Day 28 Tuesday 25th May
Bagnères de Luchon - rest day
End of Week 4: 260 miles

It has been a near perfect rest day. The morning was a relaxing and
enjoyable outing to visit nearby sights with Marie-Agnes, Martine,
Joel and Jean-Marie, from Champagne. If any of the 4 of you are
reading this, thank you so much to all of you. The day would have been
less fun without your company and kindness, for sure.
We visited "Hospice de France" which housed refugees from the Spanish
civil war but it's been recently restored and looks very new so not
very evocative of the time. It was interestisng though and in a
beautiful spot in the mountains. On the way back down we went to the
Vallée de Lys and probably the most spectacular waterfall of the trip
so far - the Cascade d'Enfer (Hell's Waterfall). And of course in true
French style my hosts were well prepared with champagne chilled in
mountain snow collected yesterday. It will be difficult to get back to
water and baguette tomorrow.
Since then I've offloaded a little more weight onto the postman,
raided the bank, rinsed half the mountainside out of my walking gear
and done quite a lot of people watching along with the occasional
blackcurrant sorbet. And I've even quite enjoyed the piped music along
the main street, courtesy of the Mairie I assume. I am well and truly
chilled and ready for week 5 and the second half.
No photos for the moment I'm afraid as no wifi available.

True French hospitality makes my day

I had planned to take the cable car to the top this morning but as
it's between winter and summer seasons it's not running. Without
hesitation the two couples I'd been talking to last night offered to
take me with them and then drop me back in Luchon before continuing on
their way. I had a delightful morning with Martine, Jean-Marie, Joel
and Marie-Agnes. As you can see from the photo they were well
supplied. They were kind enough to share a glass of champagne with me,
nicely chilled by snow collected from the mountains yesterday.

From my bedroom window in Luchon

First sight of Luchon

Slightly closer view of my bedroom on Sunday night

Granges d'Astau

Looking back to where I'd spent Sunday night from part way down from
Lac d'Oo

No GR10 but made up for in other ways

Day 27 Monday 24th May
Granges d'Astau - Luchon via Lac d'Oo 12 miles
Overnight accommodation was good and I slept soundly til the fire
alarm woke me (but not before 7.30). Going via the GR10 was definitely
not an option as the snow conditions made it too dangerous. Plan B was
perfectly acceptable though - walk up to Lac d'Oo for coffee then come
back down and continuenon lower paths through or bypassing small
villages to reach Luchon by a lower path. It worked well. Lac d'Oo was
well worth the effort and I considered taking my rest say there, bur
there was too little to do and too little company. I spent a good hour
there though before setting off on the descent. Lunch stop for a
picnic was in the village of Oô. Very pretty with lovely stone picnic
tables by the river - all in full sun of course. As it was already
nearly 30C the bus shelter came into it's own again and
I played the vagabond, making making myself comfortable with bootsnofd
and feet up. Locals were very apologetic for disturbing me when they
came with their rubbish to the nearby collection point. Then a
pleasant but long hot walk through the trees to Luchon. Why is it thar
the last hour or so seems so long. And what's the point of a zig zag
path that goes almost horizontally until the last moment then suddenly
dramatically down. Just triples the distance you need to walk.
Luchon made a good impression and I found a simple but friendly and
comfortable hotel on the church square, a bit off the main drag. It
didn't take long to settle into the "time off" mode. The evening meal
was good and the company very congenial as i got into conversation
with 2 charming french couples from the Champagne region. They are
doing an express crossing of the Pyrenees in the opposite direction to
me - and taking just a week instead of 2 months.

And once past the point of no return...

The spectacular scenery was worth the effort, although the photo
doesn't do it justice.

...or head on into the snow?

My path would take me through the middle of the path to a steep
descent the other side, which I was assured was clear of snow problems.

Time to decide - retrace my steps across the grass back to Germ or ...

>

Into the mountains but not over the hill!

Day 26 - Sunday 23rd May
Germ to Granges d'Astau 9 miles
Today was finally going to be the first day on the GR10 since St Jean
Pied de Port and I was really looking forward to it. I had a degree of
concern about the snow conditions though sonwas glad there were a
number of people in the Gite and out on the first partnod the route
whose brains I could pick. Trouble is, everyone has a different view
and you have to decide who to trust. In the end it has to be yourself.
The general opinion was that the snow would be troublesome but
probably not dangerous but the only way to tell would be to get a bit
closer to be able to see if it was possible to find a path between the
snowy patches and through the fringes of the snow. So I set off on a
steep long climb knowing that I might well reach 1900m and decide to
turn back. And by golly that climb was tough, with about 15kg on my
back. Once I reached the snow it looked possible but not certain. The
best bit of advice I was given was to remember that going up a snowy
slope is difficult, coming down alone and with the equipment I had is
impossible. The decision to go beyond the point of no return is hard
to take. It coincided with a long break. But the feeling of elation
that it was actually possible once I'd worked out a path through was
incredible. I wanted to shout it from the mountain tops, but the phone
network wouldn't let me.
So, finally, several hours later I'd reached over 2100m and gathered
my strength for a slow, steady but steep descent of 1000m. It was a
good but windy path through woods and apart from yet more trees across
paths it was quite straightforward.
10 hours after I'd set out from Germ i arrived at the Gite Auberge
d'Astau 3km short of my planned destination (and 400m lower). They had
a room free so I took it. No decision to be made. My legs had had it;
but it felt so
good. This was why I was doing the trip - I never wanted it all to be
easy.

One more river to cross

> This was the start of a long hard day on the GR10. Initially
> smallish water courses but as I got higher and closer to the snow
> they became wider and much fuller and faster flowing and very
> frequent. All beautiful, many impressive, but there's only so many
> photos of running water you can take.
>

Lac d'Oo - 1500m

I should have been here for the night but my legs wouldn't cope with 3
km more and 400m of ascent. New plan because of snow "on the line" -
coffee here then back down to village of Oô and lower path to Luchon.
I may stay for lunch though; it's so beautiful.

Up to 1300m and back to the GR10

> Day 26 Saturday 22nd May
> Arreau to Germ 9 miles
> It's been a very strenuous day with lots of ascents and descents and
> very hot but luckily much of the walking was through oak woods once
> I'd got the first 4 miles on the road out of the way. There's a lot
> to be said for walking in woods when the sun is beating down but it
> does have it's disadvantages - it cuts down the breeze and if the
> ground is covered with a thick layer of dried leaves it's difficult
> to keep your footing. There's also the issue of getting round all
> the fallen trees making it all much more physical. But I wouldn't
> have missed it for the world. The views have been spectacular and
> I've finished up after 8 and a half hours of walking surrounded by
> magnificent mountains. This is what I've come for.
> And I've passed through Mont, a village I visited first in 1964 on
> a French exchange and formed a lasting and very close relationship
> with the family who unfortunatley weren't here today but it was
> still an emotional moment.
> Tomorrow will be another challenging day - about the same distance,
> over 1000m of ascent and descent (taking me to over 2100m) and more
> high temperatures. And it looks as though less of it will be through
> trees so less shade. So I'm planning an early start with a 7am
> breakfast and am therefore about to crash out once I've got the wifi
> to work.

Evening - from my bedroom window

Mont - the church is famous for it's external paintings

This is what i've come for

To pines - much easier on the feet

From oak woods....

This one was even more troublesome

Like climbing through a tree from the top down.

Nothing like making life difficult

Today begins - the Vallée de Louron

Arreau town hall

And Another - notice the blue sky

Another view of Arreau

Tourist office at Arreau

Arreau

It's all about comfy chairs and reading matter!

Day 25 Friday 21st May
Sarrancolin to Arreau 5 miles
It's been a good day. An almost cloudless sky, good walking and a
delightful destination. Arreau itself is lively and attractive and the
Hotel d'Angleterre is excellent. I'm spoiling myself a bit after last
night as I have a couple of tough days coming up after tomorrow -
unless the remaining snow stops me again, that is. I didn't meet a
soul on the walk but it didn't seem to matter. And the people watching
has been entertaining this evening.
I've realised today that there's no one thing that contributes to a
feeling of well-being; it's a mix. Good company can reduce the
importance of other comforts; physical comfort can reduce the need for
human company; and mental stimulation can distract the mind from the
day to day negative trivia such as aches and pains. More challenging
walking takes the mind off the blisters and the aching feet and knees.
Even so, if you asked me what I'm missing most on this trip I'd
confidently say that, apart from people (specific and in general) it's
comfy chairs and physical reading matter. I have hours of audiobooks
to keep me entertained, but it's just not the same.

Sarrancolin

The Hotel Central provided probably the lowest standard accommdation
so far but certainly not the cheapest. The village itself was pretty
and friendly. I wonder if Laruns would have seemed that way if it had
been warm and dry rather than cold and wet. Now already almost half wy
to Arreau and the Hotel d'Angleterre. The pathway has been varied and
along the Aureand the weather is still on my side.

Day 24 - the sequel

Today's walk has been delightful. Not too long, almost no cloud but a
comfortable cooling breeze, and variety of terrain and scenery. Les
Baronnies was a pretty area, with wooded hillsides and hilltop
villages, but it was sooo quiet and all the villages were dead. Since
starting up the Vallée d'Aure it's become more varied, with wooded
valleys, more fast-running water and snow-covers mountains in the
distance. I have walked across fields, along roads and tracks, many
alongside rivers and through woods and enjoyed it all.
Sarrancolin itself is a pretty medieaval village with more obvious
life than I've seen for some time and Arreau tomorrow should offer
more still as I get closer to the mountains again. I should have an
even shorter day tomorrow - not much more than 5 miles is my estimate.
And I've booked a recommended hotel (d'Angleterre) in the hopes of
doing a bit better than today. I have come to the conclusion that
discomfort and solitude are fine, but not both together, and it is so
quiet everywhere that it's hard to avoid the solitude.
Sorry about all the typos by the way. The iPhone is great but the
touchscreen keyboard is awfully fiddly.

Room at the top

Day 24 Thursday 20th May
Lortet to Sarrancolin 8 miles
My estimate of distance was a bit light but nonetheless I arrived in
Sarrancolin in time for a late lunch - and it was so good. The
"formule de midi" - a four course meal of food quality for 11€. On
that basis (and the suggestion of the chap at the newsagents) I booked
a room for the night and am now tucked up in bed, but beginning to
wonder if I've made a mistake. The bed is ok and the room is clean but
it's noisy and the plumbing is rather suspect. I won't be using the
shower here!

Heading south

Left the Baronnies this morning still following one of the Santiago de
Compostela routes but now heading south towards the real mountains and
the reason for coming to the Pyrenees.
For the moment, I'm going to have a sleep while the sun is at it's
hottest. The day will start again a bit later on, but no more walking
til tomorrow.

Over 200 miles and onto map 5

Day 23 Wednesday 19th May
Moulin des Baronnies to Lortet 11.5 miles

After yesterday's long day, today's was hard, though a bit shorter. I
wasn't sorry to arrive at the stop for the night. And now, on spite of
best intentions, I have no energy left for blogging. Tomorrow should
be a short day if all goes to plan so I'll make up for it then. It
should be taking me closer to the mountains proper , provided the snow
isn't still causing difficulties. Keep your fingers crossed for mr.

Moulin des Baronnies

It was a very mice gite d'etape, though. This is the view from my
bedroom window.

Dinner with Annie and David

Walking alone is always nicer if therenis company at the end of the
day. Yesterday friends joined me for dinner at the Moulin des
Baronnies. And had they not it would have been a VERY quite evening,
all alone in a 21 bed Gite.

The abbaie d'Escaladieu

A 15th century abbey - one of the most impressive man-made sights from
yesterday.

This was very cold!

It doesn't look like it but this was running quite fast, and right
across my path. Off came boots and socks, trousers rolled up and I
carefully picked my way across. What a palaver but the iciness of the
water was a tonic for tired, sore feet.

Sun & scenery combine to spectacular effect

A 21 bed Gite d'etape all myself

Day 22 Tuesday 18th May
Trébons to Moulin des Baronnies 14 miles
What a beautiful day, weather-wise. It's been long and tiring and now
there is no moble reception, no wifi or Internet and no-one else in
the Gite. It feels really peculiar.
Annie & David came over this evening with my bag so after a visit to
the supermarket we cooked supper and enjoyed what is a delightful
environment. I'm now definitely flagging though, so since this can't
go til the morning anyway I'm going to stop and go to sleep and
perhaps make up for it tomorrow.

Un moment de repos

Day 21 Monday 17th May
Bagnères de Bigorre

So, end if third week of walking, almost 190 miles on the clock and
the first rainfree day (so far today) since day 3. Remind me not to
complain about the heat later, should I ever be tempted.
The last day off, in Laruns, was such a washout in all senses I am so
appreciating this one. A chance to reflect on the highs and lows of
the last 3 weeks, to prepare for the next few days, to look after my
body (a massage later - a real treat), to enjoy Veloharu, my chambres
d'hotes, and the company of Annie & David, friends from home, who have
come to stay here too and enjoy a week of mountain biking.
Thanks for everyone's lovely newsy and supportive emails and messages.
It's great to receive them and they help lift the spirits when they
start to flag.
Wifi is proving hard to come by here. More blogging may have to wait
until I'm away from bagnères.

Look, an Isard - bother, it's gone

Day 20 Sunday 16th May

Germ sur Ouessent to Trébons c8 miles

It's good to have a base for 3 nights - saves on th packing and unpacking, as well as the bonus of walking light. And the presence of friends means a lift to my starting point. Decided to start at Germs today (800m) rather than go back to Juncalas where I finished yesterday. Had some spectacular views and a really enjoyable walk. The highlight was seeing my first Isard - a French Chamois. Sadly it saw me before I saw it so no time to catch it on camera. Tomorrow is a day off - will see if I can find somewhere in Bagnères de Bigorre to upload the other photos I've taken. Perhaps the change in pace  will result in a more interesting blog.

To be fair to Lourdes

There wasn't much worth photographing but this shows that it wasn't
all complety tAcky and horrible. These two buildings came as a
pleasant surprise as I was leaving the town.